Post Installation Guide for Homeowners 

We have designed this guide to assist you in the post-installation process for your new 

above ground pool/liner. We understand that there is much to learn about taking care of your new pool especially for a new pool owner, and we assure you that Pool Wizards will be there every step of the way to provide assistance and service. 

A Few Things to Remember After Installation 

Water Level: Make sure the water level is between the second and third screw (vertically) on the skimmer plate at all times while running the pump. You most likely will have to add water throughout the course of the summer due to evaporation. 

Backfill: At least a small amount of backfill is usually required after installation. When doing this, it is important to use dirt to cover the bottom portion of the pool (bottom track), creating a natural barrier to keep moisture from flowing under the pool. Water that runs freely under the pool washes away the sand bed the pool rests on. Also, yards are seldom perfectly flat, so one portion of the yard may need to be excavated more deeply to make the pool sit level. The holes created by this excavation are slightly larger than the pool and need to be filled in after installation. Any pools with a portion of the pool more than 2-3ft in the ground would require a slurry (Portland cement/sand mix). Always avoid back filling with any type of stone, sand, or rocky soil as this will damage the pool wall. It is also important to add protection to the walls before backfilling against it. You can line the outside of the pool with plastic, polystyrene foam, or apply roofing tar to protect against rust and corrosion. 

Leak Prevention: Our installers use thread tape and tighten every fitting on pumps and filters. Once the pump is up and running, the high pressure of water will loosen some fittings. It is important to tighten the fittings throughout the summer, and after the initial system run. Also, tighten down the skimmer screws throughout the summer, and always in the Spring when opening the pool as this is a common area of leaks. 

Pool Structure: Above ground pools are built to last, but many are now manufactured using resin and plastic parts in which it’s possible for the pool to flex/move. The side supports on above ground pools tend to shift over time due to water movement inside the pool, flooding from rain around the pool, and freezing/thawing of the ground. These are completely decorative parts on a pool and have no structural properties. They can also be easily repaired down the line. Due to the weight of the water in such a small surface area, settling of pools can also occur and is normal for any above ground pool. Although these things happen, as long as the wall is properly maintained and in good condition, the pool is safe and will last for decades. The wall is the structural support for the entire pool. 

Vinyl Liner: It’s important to properly balance your water chemistry as it can affect the longevity of the liner. Avoid over shocking or using too many chemicals as it can weaken the liner over time. Heat and cold have the same effects on all matter: expansion and contraction, and this applies to vinyl. Years of expanding and contracting can create weak spots in your liner, which can lead to leaks. The average liner will last 7-10 years and we recommend always thinking 

about replacing every 7 before you 

start experiencing issues from old 

age/sun damage. We also recommend 

purchasing a ladder/step mat as 

almost 90% of all liners tear under 

the ladder or steps. 

Understanding the Filtration System – Filter Cleaning 

Your filter is one of the main components in keeping your swimming pool clean and knowing how to clean a pool filter is an 

essential part of basic pool maintenance. As long as you have the 

right equipment and enough time, 

cleaning your above ground pool filter 

should be simple. 

You should clean your pool filter at least once a month. A good indication 

that your filter needs to be cleaned is 

when the pressure gauge reads 10 psi 

above the normal operating level or your water becomes cloudy inside the pool. 

Cartridge Filter: This is an easy type of filter to clean because you can simply pull out the pool filter cartridge, clean it, and replace it. You’ll need to follow a few steps to make sure it’s done right: 

1. Turn off the pool pump. If you have a timer, make sure you remove anything that’ll trip the timer and turn the pump back on. You don’t want the pump to come back on when you’re cleaning the filter cartridge. For your own safety, remove air from the system. Turn the air relief valve (usually located on top of the filter) slowly to remove any excess air from the system. 
2. Remove the cartridge inside the filter tank. Remove the clamps, or other latching mechanisms holding the filter together. If you’re unsure how to open it, check the owner’s manual. Remove the top of the filter. Then, carefully remove the cartridge and set it aside. Inspect it for damage and wear. If you find any cracks or tears, or it’s past the point where cleaning will be effective, it’s time to get a new filter cartridge to replace it. 
3. Clean the pool filter cartridge. Use a spray nozzle on your garden hose to spray down the cartridge, making sure to get between the pleats. There also is a filter cleaner solution for more efficient cleaning. Ask your local pool store for more information. 
4. Return the cartridge to the filter, and secure it in place. Replace the filter top and close the clamps. Turn the system back on, and open the air relief valve to release any excess air in the system. Keep the valve open until a steady stream of water sprays from it. Check the pressure gauge to be sure it’s in the normal filter pressure range. If the pounds per square inch (PSI) is off, you may have put the filter back together incorrectly, or something else may be wrong with the system. 

Sand Filter: You can backwash the sand filter, which you’ll need to do whenever it reaches 10 psi over the normal operating level. Whether you’ve heard the term “backwash a pool filter” or just “backwash a pool,” both are the process of reversing the flow of water in your filter to remove the buildup of contaminants. As pool water passes through your sand filter, it leaves behind dirt, oils, and other debris, which are collected in the filter medium-sand. Over time, as water continues to pass in just one direction, the filter medium will become clogged, which will reduce your filter’s effectiveness. When you backwash a pool, you send water backward through the filter, and out the waste or drain port. This forces all the debris caught in the filter to dislodge so you can easily remove it and restore your filtration system back to its normal functioning level. 

1. Attach the backwash hose to the waste or backwash port. 
2. Turn the filtration system off. 
3. Turn the multiport valve to BACKWASH. 
4. Turn the filter system back on. 
5. Let the water run out of the backwash port and through the backwash hose for about a minute, or until the water runs clear. 
6. Turn the filter system off. 
7. Turn the multiport valve to RINSE. 
8. Turn the filter system back on. 
9. Rinse the filter for about 30 seconds. 
10. Turn the filter system off. 
11. Turn the multiport valve back to FILTER. 

Important: Never turn the multiport valve handle while the pool filter is on and running. This could cause the rubber diverter gasket inside the valve to come loose or break, which will in turn cause water to leak out of the wrong ports while it’s running. 

Understanding the Filtration System – Pressure Gauge 

What Does a Pool Filter Pressure Gauge Do? A pool filter requires a certain amount of pressure inside the tank to function. If that pressure gets too low or too high, the filter won’t work properly, and it can damage other equipment. The pool filter pressure gauge allows you to monitor the filter’s pressure to keep it at the right levels. 

What Is Normal Pool Filter Pressure? The most important thing to know is that there’s not one magic number that’s normal for all pool filters. An average range can be anywhere from 10 psi to 25 psi. What’s “normal” for a filter will depend on a few factors 

such as the filter’s size, the size and strength of your pump, and how clean—or dirty—the filter is at any given time. But you can set a baseline number to consider normal for your filter. You’ll do this when you first install the filter, the media is clean, and all your other equipment—especially the pump—is running the way it should. Once you’ve installed 

the filter and turned everything on, make a note of what the pool filter pressure gauge indicates. That will be the “normal” pressure level you strive to maintain. 

Take a second baseline reading after the first time you clean or change the filter media. That number and the initial number will 

give you a range to shoot for. Check the 

pool filter pressure gauge at least once a 

week as part of your regular pool 

maintenance routine. Be sure to record 

the number so you can easily see if and 

when pressure starts to rise or drop. This 

will let you know something’s wrong so 

you can troubleshoot. 

Use the Air Relief Valve. The pool filter pressure gauge has a little buddy to help keep pressure levels steady and where they should be—an air relief valve. The gauge may indicate high pressure due to air in the circulation system. This could happen if your pool’s water level is too low. It should be at about the midpoint of the skimmer. Or maybe you turned the pool off while you were on vacation, or even just to clean it. When you start things back up, you may discover air in the system. 

When water begins to flow through the system, it competes with air for space, which forces the air through the system. Left too long, it can damage your equipment, especially the pump which must contain water to function properly. When you use the air relief valve to release the air from the system, the water can once again fill the plumbing the way it’s supposed to, your equipment will be safe, and the pool filter pressure gauge should go back down. 

Check the Pressure Weekly. While a pool filter pressure gauge is a small part of a large system, it plays a vital role to the overall health of your pool. Remember to check it weekly, and when you see the numbers moving too far in either direction, address it immediately therwise, you could end up with damaged equipment and expensive repairs or replacement down the road. 

Understanding the Filtration System – Multiport Valve Settings 

You walk up to your new sand filtration system just installed by Pool Wizards and notice this handle surrounded by all these settings?! Why doesn’t the filter just have an on/off switch? Have you gotten in over your head? 

Not at all! You’ve made an excellent choice because not only are sand filters great at keeping your pool clean, they give you a lot of options to do several other things as well. 

What Does a Multiport Valve Do? Your pool filter can do so much more than just clean the pool water. Located on the top or side of the filter, the multiport valve’s numerous settings direct the pool water where you need it to go, allowing you to use the filter for multiple purposes. Need to clean the filter? Is it time to close your pool for the winter? The filter’s multiport valve makes all these filter-related tasks super simple. 

• Important: Never turn the multiport valve handle while the pool filter is on and running. This could cause the rubber diverter gasket inside the valve to come loose or break, which will in turn cause water to leak out of the wrong ports while it’s running. 

Multiport Valve Settings 

Filter: The system’s primary function used to filter the pool water to help keep it clean. It’ll remove small bits of debris, and depending on the type of filter you have, even some bacteria and other tiny contaminants. The multiport valve will be on this setting more often than any other. 

Backwash: Rather than removing the filtration sand, the best way to clean a sand filter is to backwash it. This setting will run pool water from the pump, through the filter, and out through the waste port, thereby cleaning the filtration sand. You’ll know it’s time to 

backwash your pool filter when the pressure rises 10 pounds over the normal pressure rate. 

Rinse: You’ve just backwashed your filter, loosening up dirt and debris. Next step is to rinse the filter. It would defeat the purpose of cleaning your filter if you just let a bunch of dirt flow back into the pool. Be sure to use the rinse after every backwash. 

Waste: You can use your filter to make things easier on yourself when you vacuum your pool. It’ll help pull leaves, dirt, and other debris out of your water. But you don’t want the stuff you’re vacuuming up to clog the filter. You also don’t want dirty water flowing back into your pool while you’re vacuuming. The Waste setting allows water to enter the filter, but bypass the filter sand, and be sent completely out of the filtration system. It’s important to note the following when using waste: 

• Make sure you’re disposing of expelled pool water correctly so you’re not damaging your yard or the environment. 
• When you use this multiport valve setting, your pool’s water level will drop. Before you begin vacuuming, insert a hose into the pool to replace the water you’re removing. Remember this means you’ll have to balance the water afterward. 

Recirculate: There may be times when you need to circulate your pool water without filtering it. One example of this is when you use a pool clarifier called flocculant. If your pool is cloudy, flocculant will corral the particles cloudying the water, allowing you to vacuum them up, thereby clearing the water. You need the filtration system to run in order to circulate the flocculant, but you also need it to remain in the water to do its job, so you don’t want to filter it out. 

• The Recirculate setting allows water to move through the filter without going through the filter sand. 
• You can also use the Waste setting for this if you’d rather completely remove the dirty water rather than recirculate it back into the pool. That’s probably a better option to ensure all the particles you’re trying to remove are actually removed. 

Closed: This setting closes the valves so no water can get in it. Commonly used for maintenance and working with pool plumbing. 

• Never turn on the pool pump while the multiport valve is on the closed setting. You could blow out the filter, the pump, or both. 

Winterize: When you’re putting your pool to bed for the winter, you’ll want to turn your filter’s multiport valve to the winter or winterize setting. It’s usually located between the waste and closed settings, without a groove to lock the handle in place. 

Because the handle doesn’t settle down into a groove the way it does with the other settings, the valve diverter is pushed up so it’s suspended about ¼ inch above the ports inside the valve. This is important because that space allows any water left inside the valve to expand when it freezes, but not crack the valve body or damage the filter. 

Circulation, Cleaning, & Chemistry 

The foundation of effective pool care is built on three simple but important concepts: circulation, cleaning, and chemistry. 

Good Water Circulation 

In your pool, moving water is cleaner, clearer, and safer. Proper pool circulation is key 

to healthy and safe swimming. A pool with good circulation rarely has issues like cloudy water or pool algae infestation. Keep your pump and filter system running daily to maximize circulation. For best filtration, you should ideally run the pump 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. 

The other key component to good pool circulation is frequently backwashing your filter. Backwashing refers to reversing the flow of water through your filter and shunting the dirty water and built-up contaminants to the waste port, carrying them out of your pool. 

Pool Cleaning Schedule 

If it has proper circulation, you’ve already made cleaning your pool much easier. But you’ll still need to apply some good old-fashioned elbow grease. The basic tools you’ll need are: 

1. Skimmer Net 
2. Pool Brush 
3. Pool Vacuum 

Skim, brush, and vacuum your pool weekly, at a minimum. This will keep debris out of your water, and your walls sparkling clean. An automatic pool cleaner can significantly cut your pool cleaning time. It won’t eliminate the need for regular skimming and brushing, but it’ll make both tasks easier, freeing you up to spend time enjoying your pool instead of cleaning it. Ask us about automatic pool cleaners and where to get them! When using a manual vacuum refer to these steps: 

1. Attach Vacuum Head 

and Hose to the 

Telescopic Pole: First, 

ensure the pump and filter 

are running. Attach the 

vacuum head to the open 

end of the telescopic pole. 

Attach one end of the hose 

to the vac head. If the hose 

is slippery, use a hose 

clamp to keep it in place. 

2. Fill The Vacuum Hose with Water to Remove Air: Place the vac head, telescopic pole, and hose in the pool, making sure the vac head rests on the bottom of the pool. Place the other end of the  vacuum hose against a return jet in the pool. This will push water through the hose and drive all the air out. Note: You’ll see air bubbles rising from the vacuum head on the floor of the pool. Once the air bubbles stop, all the air is out of the hose. 
3. Attach Vacuum Hose to Pool Skimmer: Attach the skim vac plate to the end of the hose you’d previously placed against the return jet, block the opening with your hand, and bring it over to the skimmer. Insert it in the skimmer on top of the basket and be sure to create a good seal or suction will be lost. 
4. Start Vacuuming: Now that you’ve built a powerful siphon using your filter system, you can vacuum the floor of your pool. Start at the shallow end (if you have one) and move toward the deep end of the pool. If you have a round pool, just start at one side and move left or right across the floor. Use long, slow, 

sweeping strokes to clean. Make sure your strokes overlap slightly to avoid leaving any debris behind. Rushing will just kick up debris, which will reduce visibility and take hours to settle down again. 

Balancing Your Water Chemistry 

While it is an essential part of effective pool maintenance and water care, basic pool chemistry is surprisingly straightforward. The most important tool in your bag of water care tricks is your water testing strips. So before you reach for the chemicals, do some pool water testing. Understanding what’s in your water, and what isn’t, is the first step to balancing it. 

The three most important parts of pool water chemistry are: 

pH levels: The measure of how acidic or basic your pool water is. Low pH levels are acidic, while high levels are basic. The ideal range for your pool is 7.4 to 7.6. 2. Alkalinity: Works as a pH buffer and helps avoid huge spikes in basicity or acidity. The ideal range is 100 to 150 parts per million (ppm). 

 Sanitizer levels: The amount of chlorine, bromine, etc. in your pool water. Proper levels vary depending on which type of sanitizer you choose. 

Once you know your pH, alkalinity, and sanitizer levels, you can start to add chemicals to tweak your water balance. Take your time, follow all the directions, and be sure you know what each chemical does and how it’ll affect the water, and the people who swim in it, before you add it. 

Owning a swimming pool is one of the most rewarding ways to enjoy fun in the sun at home. Yes, it needs regular care, but that doesn’t mean you’ll spend your life shackled to a vacuum or fiddling with your chemistry set. In fact, when you know how your pool works, understand the care it needs and plan ahead, you might find yourself taking pride in your pool care prowess. You’ll enjoy not just your swim, but the peace of mind that comes with regular and thorough pool maintenance